Saturday, December 15, 2018

British Columbia – Land of Water and Ice


Clayoquot Sound

Lawrence Islands, Clayoquot Sound, West Coast Vancouver Island
What a glorious, gorgeous day! A Double G day for Roger on his birthday. We had taken to calling beautiful days "G days" as a nod to Sister Linda who is very promiscuous in her use of “gorgeous”.  As we looked out at the Pacific Ocean from lovely Lawrence Islands we felt very, very fortunate. We had perfect weather with beautiful scenery all around. Even better we enjoyed gentle sea swells on the paddle out to the Lawrence Islands from our camp at Milties Beach on Vargas Island - a perfect present for Roger's birthday!

More Birthday scenery
Clayoquot Sound is accessed from Tofino, itself a worthy destination. The nearby Pacific Rim National Park Reserve has extensive sandy beaches and is especially popular with surfers. Brr. 
Beach near Tofino
Clayoquot Sound was our second trip in 2018 to BC. In July we had traveled north and east from our home for kayaking and hiking in some of Canada's best provincial and national parks. First we did a boatpacking trip into Murtle Lake in Wells Gray Provincial Park, then crossed over into Alberta to explore Jasper National Park and the Icefields Parkway, and from there returned to BC and Yoho National Park.

Murtle Lake
Murtle Lake is the largest paddle-only lake in North America. We were a bit concerned when we arrived at the parking lot and it was almost full. Paddling up the less traveled but more scenic and longer north arm we discovered we needn't have worried about getting campsites. The west arm is shallower and warmer, making it attractive to and more populated by scouting groups and families. 
North Arm scenery
At our first campsite we were visited by the ranger who arrived in the only motor boat allowed on the lake. He dropped off some toilet paper for the outhouse and we chatted with him a bit. He wasn't happy with Canada's environmental policies and commented that Prime Minister Trudeau was only good for taking selfies. I told him that lots of Americans would trade our President for Trudeau and even throw in a couple Senators! He wasn't enthusiastic about that idea. Thankfully we were able to mostly have a politics-free trip.
Blooms on Wavy Ridge
A nice feature of Murtle Lake is that it has several hiking trails ascending from its shores. We went on the tough but rewarding Wavy Alpine hike. After working up a good sweat, or in Roger's case a self-generated waterfall, we arrived at a beautiful alpine ridge which ended in a view of neighboring snow-capped peaks. 

Jasper and the Icefields Parkway
Enroute to Jasper
We saw several bears on the trip, including the one above and a Grizzly with the cutest cub ever along the Icefields Parkway. This bear was digging up some large rocks that I think I would barely be able to budge. He or she was doing an awful lot of work for a measly meal of insects!
Mt. Robson
A big, beautiful distraction on the drive to Jasper NP was Mt. Robson. We rounded a bend in the road and this massive mountain, highest in the Canadian Rockies, filled our view. 

You need to get up early or get off the beaten path to find solitude in Jasper. It is easier to share when the scenery is so spectacular, eliciting smiles on the faces of those viewing it, including us. 
Maligne Lake

Along the Icefields Parkway

Athabasca Glacier
Yoho National Park
A couple parties that we chatted with drove up through Banff and recommended that we not go there because of the crowds and suggested Yoho instead. We took their advice and while there hiked the Iceline trail via Celeste Lake. The whole trail was nice but an extended section above treeline offered outstanding views in every direction. 

Roger on the Iceline Trail

Iceline Trail pond
We also visited Emerald Lake before leaving Yoho NP and heading home. Emerald Lake had a lodge and other development but that didn't detract from the beauty of its rich color.
Emerald Lake
Hiking the Wilcox Pass trail along the Icefields Parkway we encountered the quirky red chairs in the photo below. These two were placed in a convenient location for looking across the valley toward the Athabasca Glacier. We weren't aware of the red chairs program of Parks Canada so they were a fun surprise. Roger took full advantage of the opportunity to slow down and savor the moment. What a time. What a place.