Bowron Lakes Canoe Circuit

Bowron Lakes

We bought our first kayak in 2006 from the Northwest Outdoor Center in Seattle and they told us about the Bowron Lakes being a great place to paddle. We finally kayaked the Bowron Lakes Canoe Circuit this past June. All I can say is: What took us so long!?!

This trip would have been perfect if mosquitoes didn't exist. The Cariboo Mountains of British Columbia are the backdrop for this picturesque 72 mile circuit of lakes, streams, and portages. Wildlife sightings included moose, a black bear, loons, bald eagles and river otters. We totally lucked out on the weather.The gorgeous scenery and placid water prompted frequent exclamations of "Look at that!" from Roger.

Peaceful water on Isaac Lake

Our good fortune stayed with us even on the day that a storm rolled through. We arrived at one of the cabins before the storm unleashed its fury and watched it with a roof over our heads and a fire burning in the woodstove.

Storm blowing in on Lanezi Lake

The Bowron Lakes circuit begins with a portage. It was our toughest because we didn't position the wheels and distribute the weight well. Struggling to push/pull the boat up an incline made us fast learners in the art of portaging.

Wheels ready for the portage

First day scene

Our first day included easy, relaxing paddles of Kibbee and Indianpoint Lake and three less than relaxing portages. We got a break from portages on day 2, starting from our campsite at the beginning of 38 kilometer long Isaac Lake.

Day 2 morning, beginning of huge Isaac Lake

Old cabin at day 2 campsite on Isaac Lake

Lush vegetation and waterfall along Isaac Lake, day 3

On the morning of day 4 we had to decide if we were going to negotiate the whitewater and sharp corner of the "Chute" or do a longer portage. We decided to run the Chute. At the informational meeting prior to beginning the Bowron circuit there was a lot of discussion about whether to run the Chute or not run the Chute. We had no difficulty getting through it. I'm sure Roger's paddling skills had something to do with that.

McLeary Lake, day 4 , site of 1st moose sighting (not pictured)

After McLeary Lake came more excitement - paddling the Cariboo River and evading deadheads and sweepers. Reports indicated that this is the section where people most often need rescue and wrecked canoes can be seen along shore.  A higher or lower water level might have been more challenging but the day we ran the Cariboo it was just fun and easy. I had no reason to be apprehensive.

Cariboo River

The Cariboo River flows into Lanezi Lake. Some canoeists had warned us about a storm forecast for the afternoon so we paddled steadily to the Lanezi cabin. We pitched our tent and then went inside the cabin and listened to the tales of later arrivals who didn't beat the storm.

Lanezi Lake after the storm

The next day we leisurely paddled through Sandy Lake and then took a detour into Unna Lake. From the trailhead at end of Unna Lake we hiked to Cariboo Falls. The falls were thunderous with voluminous spray.

On the trail to Cariboo Falls

We continued on to Babcock Lake where we camped for the night. Babcock is a small, shallow lake warm enough to entice me to go swimming. Later Roger and I sat on the beach and watched a moose feed across the lake. I was surprised that at times the moose was almost totally submerged in the water, with just the top of her back showing.

Morning fog at Babcock Lake, day 5

There was a sign warning of a bear in the area at the beginning of the short portage between Babcock and tiny Skoi Lake. There is another short, easy portage between Skoi Lake and the larger Spectacle Lake. When we completed the second portage I turned around and saw a black bear standing in the trail about 25 yards from us. He must have been just off the trail as we passed through and we didn't even see him!  

Our lunch stop on Spectacle Lake

On our last night we stayed at a campsite just off the beginning of the Bowron River. It was also the beginning of a large swampy area so we were most bugged by mosquitoes at this site. Nevertheless, the first two campsites we stopped at were full so we were glad to find it unoccupied. This was the only day we had some difficulty finding an available campsite.

View from last campsite

On our sixth and final day we meandered around the Bowron Slough for a while, hoping to see moose and not anxious for the journey to end. We did see a moose but it was on the main channel of the Bowron River rather than one of its offshoots.

Canoes turning a corner on the Bowron River with a moose just ahead

Moose swimming in the Bowron River

When we entered Bowron Lake we encountered the roughest water we had on the circuit. The wind settled down by the time we finished so conditions were back to "normal" for our trip. Back to perfect.

 Roger looking back at Bowron Lake.
(Bowron Lake is the only lake on the circuit where motorized boats are allowed.)

What a time. What a place.

Broken Group

Broken Group

In May, we headed to the Broken Group on the west coast of Vancouver Island. A relatively sheltered group of islands, the Broken Group is a very popular kayaking destination. We arrived late in the day to brilliant sunshine at Toquart, the kayak put-in. We decided to wait until morning to do the crossing to the Broken Group.

We awoke to fog, thick fog. The route looked pretty straightforward, travel up the coast a bit and then head southeast at the Stopper Islands. We paddled a ways and eventually came to some islands. They were too small to be the Stoppers so we paddled some more. The fog started to lift and still the Stoppers were nowhere to be seen. I finally got smart and got out our GPS! In the dense fog we had missed the Stoppers and now had to travel directly east to get to the Broken Group. (We later discovered that the Toquart put-in had been moved and the location on the map was wrong.) We put in some extra mileage but the water was so calm the paddling was a treat.

Islet enroute to Broken Group

We set up camp on Dodd Island and surprisingly had the place to ourselves for the duration of our stay. Two beachkeepers from theTseshaht First Nation stopped by. We talked to them about the history of their ancestors on the islands, including catching fish in stone traps. Slapping their paddles on the water, men in canoes would herd the fish into dead end bays where they had built stone walls that acted as traps when the tide went out. We found a couple of the stone fish traps later when exploring the lagoon between Jarvis and Jaques Islands.

Tree "animal" on Dodd Island

On the beach at Dodd Island

There aren't a lot of places to land in the Broken Group but we found a nice beach in the Tiny Group that was sheltered from the prevailing wind, making it a good place for lunch, napping, and on the day we were there, wildlife viewing.

Recharging

Early one morning, when conditions looked good, we ventured to the outside perimeter of the islands, where the ocean waves sculpt a rugged coastline with surge channels, sea caves and arches. I felt small and vulnerable knowing the vast ocean that lay before us could awaken at any time. Sure enough, as we rounded Gibralter Island and headed toward the more sheltered inner islands, the wind and waves picked up and gave us a taste of their power.

Sea arch

Exploring tide pools is always fun and in the Broken Group we found a couple creatures I'd never seen before: moonsnails and bat stars.

Many colored bat stars

There is more to the Broken Group than we could see in the five days we were there. Next time I'll turn on the GPS!

No trouble in the Trebles.

Costa Rica with Golfo de Nicoya Kayaking

Daughter Celeste blogged about our visit (http://yerbabarry.blogspot.com/2015/05/rah-rah-and-nana-come-to-visit-rincon.html?spref=fb) so I'll try not to duplicate what she wrote too much.

Our first impression of Costa Rica was that it was hot. Our second impression of Costa Rica was that it was hot. Our third impression of Costa Rica was - well... We arrived in Costa Rica, on the Pacific side, during the dry season so we were greeted with a dry and dusty landscape rather than my pre-existing image of a thick, green, moist jungle environment. The locals were looking forward to the return of rain and the slightly cooler "green" season.

Graham hiking in Ricon de la Vieja National Park

Before heading to Celeste and Geoff's house in Nosara we visited Ricon de la Vieja National Park. Inside the park we walked past boiling mud and steam vents. Outside the park we went to a local swimming hole that the Costa Ricans (Ticos) hanging out there said was "cold like Alaska". That description was an irresistible invitation to jump into the coolish water. Roger made quite a splash with his cannonball but it didn't compare to a couple of the young Ticos who climbed up to a high tree branch and, hurling into the air, somersaulted down to the water.

On our way to Nosara we stopped for a refreshing dip at another popular swimming spot - the beautiful Llano de Cortes Waterfall. Amara showed off her skill catching little fish with a sun hat.

Llanos de Cortes waterfall near Bagaces

We spent several days at Celeste and Geoff's house. We didn't even have to leave their balcony to see an abundance of Costa Rican animal and bird life. A special treat was seeing the beautiful Mot Mot that has been hanging out by their house. It was also fun when a family of Howler monkeys came by. The monkeys are expert acrobats, moving through the trees with ease. The Howler monkeys really do howl and when Graham called to them with his best howling, the monkeys answered!

Mot Mot

Beach time is the right time in Nosara, especially early morning and late afternoon. The middle of the day is time for a siesta and wiping away the sweatstache growing on your upper lip. Most of the beach area is protected from development and, other than the main surfing spots, was surprisingly uncrowded.

Roger and Graham 

Leaving Nosara and the tropical dry forest we traveled up to Monteverde and the cloud forest. Linda, Bob, Lois, Michelle and Colette joined us there. I'm not particularly into bird watching but doing so in Costa Rica could change that. One highlight of our trip was the birding tour in Curi Cancha Reserve in Monteverde. The enthusiasm of our guide Danilo and of our group, including 7 year old Graham and 9 year old Amara, turned a planned 3 to 4 hour tour into 5 1/2 hours.

Curi Cancha Reserve

Graham and Amara in Monteverde

Many in our group also went zip-lining in Monteverde, including my 71 year old Aunt Lois. I didn't go but the participants reported the zip-line was a very intense experience. Once they zipped off the first platform, there was no turning back, no matter how scary. Amara loved it but not everyone else did. Lois said she needed a beer or two afterwards!

After Monteverde several of us went on a 5 day kayak tour with Bahia Rica Kayak and Fishing in the Golfo de Nicoya. Our guide was Vigdis, who moved to Costa Rica from Norway with her husband Thomas. One of the reasons they left Norway was the attraction of the Costa Rican philosophy of Pura Vida, which represents a simpler, more peaceful lifestyle with an appreciation of your blessings.

Vigdis sharing with Collete

Each night we camped on a different beach, sleeping in expedition hammocks. Most meals were provided by local Tico families who had homes nearby. That meant huge helpings of rice and beans for nearly every evening, including breakfast. On the last evening of the kayak trip we went into the kitchen to get our meal. As we were waiting for our rice and beans, vegetable dish and salad, one of the semi-wild pigs, looking handsome in a mohawk mane, strolled through the kitchen. I later shared some of my rice and beans with him.

Roger by hammock, Michelle in backround

Sleeping in a hammock worked better than I expected. It was pretty comfortable for everyone except Collete. She never adapted to what she called her "cocoon". I think Collete felt like a butterfly that was trapped inside and needed to stretch her wings.

The sun went down shortly after 6 so we ended up crawling into our cocoons pretty early to sleep or read or meditate. The evening we spent on Tortuga Island I decided to stay up later by going for a walk on the beach. The walk didn't last long because there was no room to step without crushing a crab. The hermit and halloween crabs blanketed the beach. The tides of Tortuga must bring in a wealth of marine riches to support such a big army of crabs.

Halloween Crab

We didn't have any significant problems on the kayak trip although Collete took over the mantle of Most Mishaps from Michelle. We landed on one beach during a really low tide. Instead of the normal sandy beach we hopped out of our kayaks and stumbled into a sucky mucky mess. I almost lost my shoes. Collete lost her balance and down she went. Seeing her covered with brown slime from head to toe, Vigdis commented that it's customary to take a mud bath without all your clothes on.

Alpha male Spider Monkey

We paddled out to an island with Spider Monkeys and were excited to spot them up in the trees. We landed on a nearby beach and the Spider Monkeys followed. An adult female came down to the shore and checked us out. She was very gentle and sweet. The alpha male was the opposite, being verbally and physically aggressive. He would not let any of the other monkeys come down to the beach. I'm not sure if he was being a protector or a bully.

I felt absolutely blessed to go on a night paddle where we were able to experience the enchantment of bioluminescence. The water sparkled as our boats glided silently along. It seemed like Tinkerbell was lighting our way, dancing on the water. Linda said it was magical. Linda was right.

Lunch stop: Vigdis, Michelle, Linda, Collete and Roger on last day of kayak trip

Then it was back to Nosara for a couple more days of sunsets, beach time, bird watching and family before flying home. It wasn't hard to leave the heat behind but it was very difficult to say good-bye to Amara and Graham. We're looking forward to spending time with them in August when they return to Washington for a visit.

Roger, Amara, Katherine, Graham, Lois, Linda, Celeste 

 Pura Vida