Tuesday, May 12, 2015

Costa Rica with Golfo de Nicoya Kayaking

Daughter Celeste blogged about our visit (http://yerbabarry.blogspot.com/2015/05/rah-rah-and-nana-come-to-visit-rincon.html?spref=fb) so I'll try not to duplicate what she wrote too much.

Our first impression of Costa Rica was that it was hot. Our second impression of Costa Rica was that it was hot. Our third impression of Costa Rica was - well... We arrived in Costa Rica, on the Pacific side, during the dry season so we were greeted with a dry and dusty landscape rather than my pre-existing image of a thick, green, moist jungle environment. The locals were looking forward to the return of rain and the slightly cooler "green" season.
Graham hiking in Ricon de la Vieja National Park
Before heading to Celeste and Geoff's house in Nosara we visited Ricon de la Vieja National Park. Inside the park we walked past boiling mud and steam vents. Outside the park we went to a local swimming hole that the Costa Ricans (Ticos) hanging out there said was "cold like Alaska". That description was an irresistible invitation to jump into the coolish water. Roger made quite a splash with his cannonball but it didn't compare to a couple of the young Ticos who climbed up to a high tree branch and, hurling into the air, somersaulted down to the water.

On our way to Nosara we stopped for a refreshing dip at another popular swimming spot - the beautiful Llano de Cortes Waterfall. Amara showed off her skill catching little fish with a sun hat.
Llanos de Cortes waterfall near Bagaces
We spent several days at Celeste and Geoff's house. We didn't even have to leave their balcony to see an abundance of Costa Rican animal and bird life. A special treat was seeing the beautiful Mot Mot that has been hanging out by their house. It was also fun when a family of Howler monkeys came by. The monkeys are expert acrobats, moving through the trees with ease. The Howler monkeys really do howl and when Graham called to them with his best howling, the monkeys answered!
Mot Mot
Beach time is the right time in Nosara, especially early morning and late afternoon. The middle of the day is time for a siesta and wiping away the sweatstache growing on your upper lip. Most of the beach area is protected from development and, other than the main surfing spots, was surprisingly uncrowded.
Roger and Graham 
Leaving Nosara and the tropical dry forest we traveled up to Monteverde and the cloud forest. Linda, Bob, Lois, Michelle and Colette joined us there. I'm not particularly into bird watching but doing so in Costa Rica could change that. One highlight of our trip was the birding tour in Curi Cancha Reserve in Monteverde. The enthusiasm of our guide Danilo and of our group, including 7 year old Graham and 9 year old Amara, turned a planned 3 to 4 hour tour into 5 1/2 hours.

Curi Cancha Reserve
Graham and Amara in Monteverde
Many in our group also went zip-lining in Monteverde, including my 71 year old Aunt Lois. I didn't go but the participants reported the zip-line was a very intense experience. Once they zipped off the first platform, there was no turning back, no matter how scary. Amara loved it but not everyone else did. Lois said she needed a beer or two afterwards!

After Monteverde several of us went on a 5 day kayak tour with Bahia Rica Kayak and Fishing in the Golfo de Nicoya. Our guide was Vigdis, who moved to Costa Rica from Norway with her husband Thomas. One of the reasons they left Norway was the attraction of the Costa Rican philosophy of Pura Vida, which represents a simpler, more peaceful lifestyle with an appreciation of your blessings.
Vigdis sharing with Collete
Each night we camped on a different beach, sleeping in expedition hammocks. Most meals were provided by local Tico families who had homes nearby. That meant huge helpings of rice and beans for nearly every evening, including breakfast. On the last evening of the kayak trip we went into the kitchen to get our meal. As we were waiting for our rice and beans, vegetable dish and salad, one of the semi-wild pigs, looking handsome in a mohawk mane, strolled through the kitchen. I later shared some of my rice and beans with him.

Roger by hammock, Michelle in backround
Sleeping in a hammock worked better than I expected. It was pretty comfortable for everyone except Collete. She never adapted to what she called her "cocoon". I think Collete felt like a butterfly that was trapped inside and needed to stretch her wings.

The sun went down shortly after 6 so we ended up crawling into our cocoons pretty early to sleep or read or meditate. The evening we spent on Tortuga Island I decided to stay up later by going for a walk on the beach. The walk didn't last long because there was no room to step without crushing a crab. The hermit and halloween crabs blanketed the beach. The tides of Tortuga must bring in a wealth of marine riches to support such a big army of crabs.
Halloween Crab
We didn't have any significant problems on the kayak trip although Collete took over the mantle of Most Mishaps from Michelle. We landed on one beach during a really low tide. Instead of the normal sandy beach we hopped out of our kayaks and stumbled into a sucky mucky mess. I almost lost my shoes. Collete lost her balance and down she went. Seeing her covered with brown slime from head to toe, Vigdis commented that it's customary to take a mud bath without all your clothes on.

Alpha male Spider Monkey
We paddled out to an island with Spider Monkeys and were excited to spot them up in the trees. We landed on a nearby beach and the Spider Monkeys followed. An adult female came down to the shore and checked us out. She was very gentle and sweet. The alpha male was the opposite, being verbally and physically aggressive. He would not let any of the other monkeys come down to the beach. I'm not sure if he was being a protector or a bully.

I felt absolutely blessed to go on a night paddle where we were able to experience the enchantment of bioluminescence. The water sparkled as our boats glided silently along. It seemed like Tinkerbell was lighting our way, dancing on the water. Linda said it was magical. Linda was right.
Lunch stop: Vigdis, Michelle, Linda, Collete and Roger on last day of kayak trip
Then it was back to Nosara for a couple more days of sunsets, beach time, bird watching and family before flying home. It wasn't hard to leave the heat behind but it was very difficult to say good-bye to Amara and Graham. We're looking forward to spending time with them in August when they return to Washington for a visit.

Roger, Amara, Katherine, Graham, Lois, Linda, Celeste 
 Pura Vida




No comments: